Back in 2018 I bought an Ender 3 and over the years after a lot of tinkering and upgrading I got really sick of having to work on it, so I shelved it permanently a few years ago. I didn’t have very much I wanted to print by then anyway, and another print failure that resulted in a giant ball of plastic covering the hotend for the umpteenth time tipped me over the edge. I could only disassemble it for service so many times before I started wanting to give it the Office Space treatment.

But now I would like to start printing again, only this time I want to actually just print things and not feel like an unpaid 3D printer mechanic. I don’t need anything fancy, I’m still only going to print ~95% PLA with the occasional PETG or ASA maybe. Really all I want is the equivalent of an Ender 3 only reliable, quiet, and with auto bed levelling (also having an actually flat bed to start with would be nice). Any kind of mandatory (or pseudo-mandatory via arbitrary feature-lock) cloud connectivity is a hard no from me. I will use Octoprint to manage it.

Are there any cheap printers that fill that role these days? I’m well and truly OOTL

  • punkfungus@sh.itjust.worksOP
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    18 hours ago

    Thanks for the advice everyone. I’ve been researching the suggested printers, though options are somewhat limited in my area and pricing varies to US retail. I’d hoped the Ender 3 price tier had approached a more turn-key experience by now, but it seems pretty hit or miss with the Ender 3 V3 SE as far as I could tell. It looks like out of what’s available the Qidi Q1 Pro gets me what I want and is the best bang for buck in local pricing.

  • Dion Starfire@sh.itjust.works
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    1 day ago

    If you want to print in ASA, you’re going to want an enclosed model. I recently bought a Qidi Q2 after going through the same frustration with my old Ender 3. My main selling points on it were that it was capable of handling stuff like ABS and ASA, and most importantly, gave me full control of the device. Unlike Bambu, I have the root password to the controller board (which runs Klipper), and the (admittedly mediocre) AI spaghetti detection runs fully locally. It also has a carbon filter built in, which is a must if you intend to put the printer anywhere indoors and print in something other than PLA or PETG.

  • nesc@lemmy.cafe
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    1 day ago

    Centauri Carbon is the best right now. Bambulab a1 actually has soft cloud requirement (at least in my experiencev they stop printing in offline/lan mode once in a while until you allow it to phone home for a bit), also it’s just worse and has more limitations due to it being bed slinger.

  • cecilkorik@piefed.ca
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    1 day ago

    “Cheap?” Depends on your definition, but go for Prusa. Open specs, open ecosystem, open software, open upgrades. Tinkering is still completely possible (in some ways even easier) but unlike Ender 3 it is never actually necessary. The damn things just work, all the time, every time. They’re workhorses. Best of both worlds, in my opinion.

    • luftruessel@feddit.org
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      22 hours ago

      With the intention of getting into 3D printing myself, I spend quite some time researching printers. Prusa checks many of my requirements and I love their approach. But the printers really seem a lot more pricey in comparison to what the competition has to offer. I get where that comes from and I’m likely to get a Prusa in the end just because of principles. But this is something you have to consider I guess.

  • Interstellar_1@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    1 day ago

    I would recommend the creality sparkx i7. It’s a clone of the a1 but it makes some small improvements in every angle where a benchmark can be made, plus it’s not locked down.

    Edit: just noticed you want to print ASA. probably should go for something else, then.

  • neinhorn@lemmy.ca
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    2 days ago

    If don’t care about open source or that you’re locked into a vendor specific slicer. The A-series from Bambu labs is a very good turn key printer.

    If you care about the specifics of open source or how your print gets sent to the printer, then I suggest looking somewhere else.

      • ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        1 day ago

        I would recommend stripping qidi’s shitty dirty klipper implementation out of the xmax 3 and throw freedi on it instead. The display layout is way better, but most importantly you get pure klipper with all the benefits of the latest additions and customizability from the community.

  • Synapse@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    Are you open to buying second hand ? Maybe try to find a Prusa i3 MK3 in good conditions on the market. Mine has been super reliable for many years (excluding the MMU 💩). Not the fastest nor most feature rich printer by today’s standards, but a damn reliable one.

  • KaRunChiy@fedia.io
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    1 day ago

    My local library got Bambu Lab A1’s and those have been stupid reliable.

    I also chose an ender 3 as a starter, not because it was cheap, but because i like messing with things, definitely not a printer for someone who just wants it to work all the time.

    • nesc@lemmy.cafe
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      1 day ago

      They were reliable now they started to make them cheaper and reliability suffered, also completely closed ecosystem isn’t helping.

  • sychthys@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    After Elegoo provided the single worst customer service experience I’ve ever had, I strongly recommended anyone but them. To replace the Neptune that we had so many issues and lack of support with, we picked up an Anycubic Kobra S1 that’s been great. Would recommend for the price. Enclosed CoreXY, so it prints ASA and PETG very well without needing extra enclosures.

  • Strayce
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    2 days ago

    Recently upgraded to an Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus, although I wouldn’t exactly call that ‘cheap’. No complaints so far, but I did replace the firmware with OpenNep4tune straight away so I can’t speak to the bone stock, out-of-box experience. Initial calibration was a little annoying but it auto-levels before every print, works really well with Orca and has its own remote web interface. I’ve only used it with PLA so far, but now that I have it dialled in I haven’t had a failed print that wasn’t my own fault.

  • Iced Raktajino@startrek.website
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    2 days ago

    My Ender 3 V3 SE (I think I got all the initials in there?) has been pretty painless. The only thing I changed on it was replacing the stock magnetic bed with the glass one. I was having constant adhesion problems with the base layer and the glass bed fixed that immediately.

    The other thing that (seemed to) help was switching from whatever slicer I originally used (forget which) to OrcaSlicer and just using its generic defaults for the filament and printer options. When I first started, I took the specs from the filament rolls and made profiles for each brand, but that just made my prints worse. Orca’s defaults “just work” for me and less effort on my part. Win-win lol.

    • spongebue@lemmy.world
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      1 day ago

      That’s the same initials of mine! I did a PEI bed sheet though, and so far I’ve stuck with Cura (but you’re tempting me!)

      Is it the greatest? Of course not. Does it take care of a lot of issue I had with my previous Ender 3 V2? Definitely.

    • Hazy@aussie.zone
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      1 day ago

      I’d argue having to replace the bed because of constant adhesion issues is not “pretty painless”

      • Iced Raktajino@startrek.website
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        1 day ago

        I mean, first layer adhesion is a problem common to more than just a specific printer and there are all kinds of tips and tricks to deal with it. The only one I tried (covering the bed in painter’s tape) didn’t pan out, and a friend was talking up the glass bed he just installed.

        So instead of trying more tips and tricks like taking a glue stick to the bed surface, I went with the glass bed. I was expecting it to be like a $60 part but it was only like $15 so that worked out really well.

        • Hazy@aussie.zone
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          6 hours ago

          Bro I totally get it, but I’m in the exact same boat as OP. Have an old ender 3 I stopped using and wouldn’t mind printing again but so over fucking around. If I get a printer again I’ll want plug and play.