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Chinese food is having a moment outside China, driven by huge success and intense competition back home. And nowhere is this clearer than in Singapore, where ethnically Chinese people make up more than three-quarters of the multicultural population.

The trend is not surprising given that Chinese soft power seems to be on the rise – think viral Labubu dolls, humanoid robots and futuristic cities that are impressing travellers.

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As an increasingly authoritarian China tries hard to win the world over, a sumptuous table may just be its most effective, and underrated, draw.

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In her book, Ms. Dunlop [a British food writer] cites one of her readers suggesting that Beijing could more effectively project its soft power by “changing its controversial overseas Confucius Institutes into top-notch Chinese restaurants”.

Beijing is battling plenty on the international front: Trump’s tariffs, alleged espionage plots and a world that is wary of its economic might.

Even this explosion in Chinese restaurant chains is worrying local businesses in Singapore who wonder if they can keep up.

Stiff competition in China and a spending dip are forcing these chains offshore. And their pace of expansion is insatiable – they bring with them a reliable supply chain, marketing acumen, and deep pockets that allow them to sacrifice profit.

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It is not the first time the exports of China’s success have sparked anxiety in its smaller South East Asian neighbours. It has already happened with plenty of Chinese imports, from clothing to gadgets.

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