i don’t even need good specs or sd card, just a good camera, foss rom and good battery

was not expecting cft

most fears are kinda like intuitions, where you come up with scenarios of things going downhill, they can definitely help you skip a few such scenarios

If you want set it and forget, you can try immutable distros like fedora silverblue, if you use bottles for running games, you can look at bazzite. If you want to tinker, then debian/arch/fedora minimal installs and build what you want

We have a peas and cabbage (essentially cook both of them in a pan/wok with mild spices, you can add carrots, tomatos or onions to your liking to increase the volume or add more textures), you can prepare dim-sums or momos (refined-flour or rice flour sheets filled with vegetables(usually cabbage, carrots; minced) or some meats, steamed). You can pickle the cabbages, or even make chips out of them (mince fine, then sun/oven/microwave/air-fryer drying to a point where they loose about 40-50% by weight/volume of water, then bake or fry to your preferences in mild spices)

it is a black hole

yes, but that is a separate investment

Going for 6-7 years - you need to keep a few things in mind

• depending on usage - battery would have to replaced once or twice - so machine has to be somewhat repairable.

• a subset of above - 2 or 3 cleanings per year

• also try to find repair guides for your device, the harder it is to repair, less good of a deal it is. For my old laptop, i have to not only remove all of the motherboard, but then de-rivet a back plate, and then replace keyboard and re-rivet. This forced me to buy a external keyboard.

• go for a good display - at this price, tn is very common, my old laptop was tn, and it sucked. go for IPS. (difference in price would be $10)

• if you are flexible with budget, don’t buy really old stuff. Anything from last 3-4 or even 5 years is fine, but any older is definitely not. since you want to future proof, going for maybe $100 more for a better cpu may even pay well, if you amortize the cost over 4-5 years

• go for something not plastic body - my last laptop was plastic body, and in nearly 2 years of daily commute and medium to heavy usage, all edges broke, and in 1-2 falls, i even had display bleed. Unscrewing and screwing back made plastic bits fail over time. If you can find a metal body, then great, if not, try to get something which has parts of body metal reinforced (my current one is this)

• whatever hardware you get - please check linux compatibility beforehand. for laptops this will include keyboard - touchpad, wifi cards, and so on

• do not go for a gimmicky device

Don’t be overwhelmed by linux. These days, operating systems are anyway glorified boot loader for browsers, where people do everything. If you need any help, post in communities and you will find help. You can also message me if you would like that.

what is your budget? for hardware, I would either recommend a used laptop, or some entry level laptop. For a scale, I bought something for 500$ USD (did not buy in US, converting pricing to it) and for that I got - a recent-ish 8 core cpu, with a good (relatively) igpu, 24 GiB Ram, 1 TB storage, and 50Whr battery. If you want to target for 300$, you can roughly halve these specs, and get reasonable deals.

For distro - Anything works. If you want something to set and forget - pick a immutable distro like Silverblue. All distros essentially will act same, don’t try many. What you may want to try is Desktop environments (you can either check youtube videos, or project webpages). If no windows is installed, manufacturers either put opendos on it, or just plain blank, in either case you would prepare a installer media (instructions available on all distro websites, it is easy), go to bios, allow usb booting, then plug the usb, while booting select the media, and start. Then most installers are guided enough to help you.

Best of Luck.

the battery thing is real. I basically can not find a laptop with weak/low power cpu and igpu, but a huge battery. I get that we can not do more than 99whr, but for weak stuff, I can not find anything above 50 practically.

I maybe am completely wrong here, but i think this the article https://jasmine.nao.ac.jp/2024_2/EN/press_release_20241025_en.html

In the figure 3, the doppler shift considered seems way to high to me. If i get it correctly, we should be able to see the ring also also from top and bottom, so the center also should be in the plane of us viewing. the simulations seems to be from POV of someone much closer to BH, but we are really far, and then the effect should not be this much evident (I think).

Anyway, it is not necessarily this image that i am fond of. In a abstract sense. we have the raw image data, and just need a good image encoding algorithm to process this data. The fact that we got this raw data is amazing.

We as in humanity may visit it, but we who are alive right now have a really slim chance

would love to see some pictures

these are people you should be scared off

epubs are effectively self contained html files, but the scripting is not there (afaik)

to add to it, you “can” add anything arbitrary, but it is not same as downloading a executable. Due to some really weird reasons, many parties were interested in using pdfs like interactive forms, for example some government forms, where you can fill a field, and you can add scripting to execute upon input and convey back. It is somewhat like javascript for pdfs, and then the onus is on the pdf readers to be compliant enough to execute such scripts, and provide enough access to your system. Many minimal pdf viewers do not implement these features, or for example pdf viewer in firefox has the option to execute, but disabled by default.

I have some background in chem (not in chem directly,but material synthesis), but absolutely none in gardening.

About stains, yes methyline blue can tell live from dead, but that is not that great of thing, i don’t remember names, but maybe you can find some good examples in the thought emporium yt channel or just in general, you can practically any stains, most will stain nucleus, or at least the nucleolus, and then you can take some good photos, for charecterisation, standard procedure is to check for absorbance, and then check for presence of particular organelles under really good microscope.

But damn the macro shots look good, i never use my macro lens, maybe will try in future.

1 More thing I missed earlier was hydroponics (sorry i did not open the link earlier), on checking, maybe the largest component making system acidic would be the MgSO4, and depending on temperature and solubility of MgOH, that can be mildly acidic (more than other corresponding mild bases)

[…] Adding Peroxide/ other oxidizers

the fun thing is, there weren’t any “oxidisers”. This is a gross oversimplification, but most things that i wrote are free radical generators, which can oxidise/reduce. About the chelations, most of these should be stable under free radicals, but most organic stuff (read stuff with free easy H+ or other alkali or alkaline earth metals) will have positive ions stripped, generating anions. But most chelates are any way anionic. so most of these would be “okay” (in reality, you may have some singlet donations, or some other fancy substitutions, but your chelates are “stable” enough for that(the forward rate constant would not be high)). If you dont want to add anything, then maybe consider electrolysis. For this I would recommend finding SRP (Standard reduction potential, fancy way to put how readily they want to reduce, if you really want to do fancy, find the concentration, diffusion and gas overpotentials too for really accurate calculation) for all ions involved. when you electrolyse a salt solution, lets say MgSO4, NaCl, and H2O, (I am pulling values out of thin air here, dont take the result here, just the methodology), and suppose Cl- is more readily reduced among Cl-, SO4 2-, and OH-, and H+ is more readily reduced among Na+, Mg+ and H+, then H2 and Cl2 will evolve, and you would be left with a basic medium. This way, you would have in-situ Cl generated which can kill anything. but you can control rate by controlling the current (voltage would be determined mostly by srp). This is pretty much what bleach has, a Cl in some positive valency, which will readily oxidise anything, but with bleach, you can only control concentration, here you can control both conc and current (that is rate) to figure things out. Experiment with this if you have time, and this can be cheap (for a cheap setup, you require table salt and a 5 volt battery with rheostat). For stability of chelates, you can look up ligand exchange energy, for standard stuff, you can very easily find values.

Yes it will kill everyone, good and bad guys. But for good guys (and considering it is hydroponics) - maybe you can add a small amount of algae later on. Be wise in its addition, as it can very easily bloom in such nutrient conditions. This is, in case you ever want to venture into aquaponics. I don’t think you require much bacterial culture anyway, if you do, I would recommend to maintain some good strains, and add later

i am not into gardening much, but your photos look great. You seem to have a good microscope, maybe you can buy some stains (not very expensive unless you buy good stuff to quantise) and even do some charecterisation.

From what I got, you have a mildly basic master batch, which you dilute. Regular tap water should not have a pH more than 9-10, and if you want the final batch to be neutral, then you need your master batch to have a pH of roughly 3-4. Since you have a mostly basic master batch (kOH in reasonable concentration alone would make it 13+). Most other salts would be mostly neutral. I dont know what phosphorus form you are using, if its phosphorus oxide (P2O3 or P2O5, though latter is very unlikely) then mildly acidic, if Calcium phosphate then mildly basic. If you target for a pH of 8-9 or plants (I dont think any higher would be suitable, though depends on plants, can you check for any residue (salts) on plant parts, if so, your stuff is way to basic).

Getting back on point, purely to get rid of any live growth, you can add anything which generates free radicals (peroxides (hydrogen, or sodium or potassium), or iodine (you can get tinctures), or even ozone (you can buy ozonator, somewhat expensive), or if you want to set something up, just perform some electrolysis in portions of master batch, but please ensure you don’t inhale stuff. And electrolysis will make system more basic.

My bigger question is, is this growth really problematic or not, if plant health is not getting hampered, i would not actually do anything, and maybe add some small amount of worms (if in soil, then even earth worms work). They can feed on this growth, and help in tilling.

Again, I am a gardening noob, and not a chemist, so what I may have said may as well be shit, please feel free to correct me.

happy you are all good. Some people who are not well find there lives to be lacking, and long for some imaginary things. And sometimes just asking directly helps

sorry, but your comment felt slightly depressing, just wanted to ask you if you are well