Left to right: Olight i3e with Glow Rhino Spark locator, Lumintop EDC01, Lumintop EDC15 with Wurkkos HD12 clip, Wurkkos TS10v2, Convoy T3.

Micro-reviews: i3e is nice but too bright (90lm/70 minutes). I’d prefer 30lm/3.5 hours. Skilhunt E3A is same idea, has high CRI led available if purchased direct, but is harder to find at US dealers. It’s possible to change the brightness of both lights by swapping an 0603 sized resistor, i.e. you need SMT rework tools, but some BLF’ers have done it. I’ll want to attempt this if I can get access to the tools sometime. I’ll note that I tried a mostly-depleted alkaleak AAA (1.0V OCV) in the i3e and got no light at all. Some other lights are able to reach lower voltages and still make some light.

Spark locator works but the next bigger size (Ember) should be a lot easier to find in the dark. It does cost 2x more and both are sort of mismatched to these tiny cheap lights.

Lumintop EDC01 is ok, needs a pocket/hat clip. Comes with a GITD diffuser/end cap (not shown) which is kind of nice, and also a split ring / gate clip. Also has a GITD O-ring in the bezel, but that has such short persistence that it’s almost useless. It has mode memory and levels are in H-M-L order. I’d prefer L-M-H and no memory, or maybe even just two levels (20 and 100lm). Beam is floody which I like. Uses one AAA cell, 10440 not allowed. The old Fenix LD01 felt more solid but is long discontinued. I haven’t tried the current E01v2 which has a similar setup to this Lumintop.

Lumintop EDC15 is the lightest weight current production AA light that I know of at 20.5g, and it’s pretty small too. It has 4 levels + strobe, uses AA or 14500, and came with a 14500 with a USB-C charge port, nice. (Product page says micro-USB but must be out of date). It also has mode memory. If up to me I’d give it L-M-H (3 levels), no memory, no strobe. It also came with a diffuser, gate clip, and split ring, but no pocket clip. The Wurkkos HD12 clip fits nicely. I haven’t tried the TS10 clip on it yet.

Wurkkos TS10v2: probably familiar to most of you. I also have the TS10SG and I like the SG a little better, though opinions vary about this. I wish the series hadn’t been discontinued. Note, this light is 14500-only, not dual fuel. The Emisar KR1AA is a few mm longer and dual fuel and I’ll probably get one sometime, though I prefer the TS10SG’s throwier beam.

Convoy T3: Pretty decent for this style of mix and match light. Host looks suspiciously similar to Sofirn SP10 Pro host not in photo. I got it with an 1800K LED which I’m still getting used to. I have the 12 mode group driver that I haven’t yet taken out of the light. It has a reflector which makes a somewhat focused beam that still has good spill. The slightly smaller T5 has an optic that’s more of a flooder. My main wish for these lights is to be able to reprogram the modes since this would be a very good “granny light” if it were only possible to configure it with 1 level of around 50 lumens. It’s rather large for a 1AA/14500 light but that’s fine. There is some work happening on BLF about reprogramming some of the Convoy drivers, which use a Sonix MCU with an 8051-like instruction set. But that will probably come sooner to 18650-powered drivers, plus will require removing the driver and maybe de-soldering an MCU pin, so it’s much nicer to have Anduril and flash pads. On the other hand the Convoy tail clickie switch has positive tactile feel, guarantees zero parasitic current drain, and the lights are much more affordable than a KR1AA.

  • JayGray91🐉🍕@piefed.social
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    13 days ago

    I have an orange bodied i3e used with alkaleak battery. I wasn’t paying much attention to it and just the other day it didn’t light up. I think I’ve had it for a few years now. Sadly when I opened it up the battery already leaked and killed the body.

    Maybe it can still be saved somehow as I have it still. I also have a black i3e and using it now with the orange head. That one now I’m using with an eneloop.

    • solrize@lemmy.mlOP
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      13 days ago

      My condolences. I got the i3e because an alkaleak killed my Skilhunt E3A. I’m trying to use Eneloops or Laddas in everything, but it’s so easy to slip up.

      Yes you can probably clean out the messed up orange body. Vinegar is supposed to work. In my E3A it’s the electronics that are damaged. Oh well.