• 9 Posts
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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 30th, 2023

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  • This is a great example of why to check before killing/removing any bugs from your plants. Same thing when you see eggs planted on your leaves. It would suck to crush a bunch of assassin bug eggs on a plant.

    I had yellow jackets build a nest inside one of my potted plants last year. On one hand, it’s a little sketchy, on the other hand, wasps and Hornets are great multipurpose predators if they aren’t located where they will bother you much.





  • The nuts at this stage smell very citrusy, almost. Apparently that doesnt last for nocino, but it might for the “molasses”. Also, be forewarned that the nuts are light green-whitish on the inside when you first cut them open, but they rapidly start to oxidize and the liquid inside starts to darken, and I bet it could stain your hands/clothes/cutting board if you don’t rinse quickly.








  • I am assuming they are just out of stock temporarily. I wanted one a while back and I just had to wait a little bit. If you email their support, they are super helpful.

    If you’ve never taken it apart, i would definitely do that before ordering stuff from baratza. There’s a good chance if you’ve been using it for a while that’s you have some broken bits of the paddles that clear grounds into the chute, and that’s easy to replace when you replace the burrs. Same thing with the upper burr carrier. It uses 3 points of contact to maintain a setting, and if one breaks, it’s not super obvious except in makes a less consistent grind. To get to that, you just need to pull off the hopper and upper carrier without any tools.




  • But you don’t call it “point four five caliber” you call it “forty five caliber”. Similar is 7.62 mm AKA “thirty caliber”. It’s reasonable that someone wouldn’t know that it’s literally just hundredths of inches.

    Shotgun gauge is wonky, so it’s not a given that the number would just be a diameter in units they are familiar with. “Grains” are also a meaningless unit to most people.





  • Generally, when you want to heat the beer is after fermentation has peaked. Higher temps means faster fermentation (obviously to a point), and fermentation generates heat (positive feedback loop), which is why you need to cool beer through the initial stages of fermentation). After peak though, the temperature drops and causes a positive feedback loop downwards. This means that your beer really crawls to the finish line. Your beer might be 90% done after 3 days, but then take a couple weeks for that last 10%.

    Another benefit is if you are bottling the beer, you need to know how much sugar to add. Calculators ask for the beer temperature post fermentation to determine residual CO2. With a dropping temperature, it’s hard to say what that point is, and if fermentation is just stalled, not complete, you could have residual fermentation sugar. Bumping the temperature up at the end solves both problems.

    I also second adding a fan. No need for anything crazy, just something little to move the air. I used a old computer case fan wired to a random DC charger from the “miscellaneous chargers” bin at the thrift store: just make sure the voltage works with the fan.

    Moisture can be an issue when you are keeping a fridge above the designed set temperature, but below ambient. I just keep a long sock filled with silica beads in mine. To recharge, I can just pop it in a low oven. They sell devices to do this (evadry is the brand name), but you might get literally 20x less silica for the convenience of a case and built in heating element.