Foam earplugs on motorcycles, folks!

In city at low speeds? That’s ok, you may not need them.

Anything on the highway? Earplugs, the wooshing will eventually woosh your ability to hear away.

Hell yeah, awesome 😂

Damn, that’s where it happened?? I fucking bike right past that!!

Here you go, silly:

• https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0094119021000383
• https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0261517725000743
• https://marketdaily.com/the-airbnb-effect-how-short-term-rentals-are-changing-local-housing-markets/

You’re right on a micro level, but on macro scale, it’s absolutely making an impact.

Oh dude, glue stick 100%. PETG is my preferred print material, wouldn’t dream of printing without the glue stick.

Use a smooth plate as well.

You’re wrong, sadly.

E: I’d rate interaction with the “buttnugget” LLM at 1 of 5 stars, the model is a dumbass that can only parrot very weak talking points in a meekly aggressive tone. When presented with evidence, this shit-box LLM can only respond with “lmfao” and terminate the interaction.

If it were a living being I’d tell them their mother is ashamed of them for lack of critical thinking skills, but considering that it’s just a weak model, I’ll say that its programmer is a clownass who was rejected round one in hiring for obvious reasons.

I really did love how funky this movie was. French animation is a whole different species.

😬 damn, sorry homie. I guess if it’s lifetime warranted, resell the replacements?

Not particularly relevant, but it’ll help you see through marketing dreck no matter how it evolves: Plasma arcs can go that high in temp, but has no effect on what makes something “hard” or “soft”: interatomic bond strength. I’m certain you know this, but carbon (as in the diamond) holds hands really strongly with other carbon, more strongly than iron to iron as in a steel spatula.

In theory, an actual diamond surface (not sprayed on, but grown) would be impervious to steel implements. But in reality, making a fully uniform diamond coating is extremely difficult, and thus tear-jerkingly expensive.

Spraying chunks of diamond onto a surface as the mfgr has done really means there’s a thin sticky coating on the pan before they start, so that these hot pieces of diamond partly melt into it and are “glued”. Safe bet that later is PTFE. That means when your pan is hot on the stove, the layer softens and you wind up eating little bits of diamond with each meal. One day, food sticks, as you’ll have found a spot missing too many diamonds, it’s just the substrate with a bunch of tiny holes to make food stick even worse than a smooth plastic surface.

My modern bike includes a fuel EVAP filter as well as a catalytic converter, which early 2000s bikes mostly didn’t.

Hmm… I hope this goes well.

You know that feeling when you’re in the basement of a long abandoned house, and the creaking of joists overhead are getting louder on their own?

All technically true & correct.

I’ll add that cast iron consistently works better for longer: My ceramic or PTFE pots start great, but after a while become so terrible they’re useless in spite of silicone spatulas etc. I cook almost daily, so I found the new tech pans fully degraded within a year or less.

Cast iron, I’ve car camped and daily stove topped, no problem. I season it once every couple of years, works great.

👍 Still useful info for the anyone in the future doing this kind of work.

Nice, you’ll find bikes to be away easier to work on than cars haha. Maybe email this guy? https://www.pentonpartsusa.com/catalog/8a repair sachs.htm

For the tank, I basically turned the tank upside down after taping up the fill port, and reached a bent coat hanger in via the removable petcock, electrically isolated from the tank body with the highest of technology: used chopsticks. Coat hangers usually have a thin plastic varnish, so scrub the wire with steel wool first.

Electrolysis will ‘pull’ rust from every spot that has line-of-sight with the wire. Considering the u-bend, seems like you may have to do two runs of electrolysis for removing the majority of the rust, then follow it with something like evaporust to get anything that got missed.

Glad to hear you put oil in the cylinder first, I really wish I had known that when I first started haha.

I encourage you to stop buying almonds anyway lol

Alright bud, congrats, this is how I got into motorcycling as well, albeit on a different make/model.

Some things to check, if you’re already aware of this stuff my bad, but maybe you’ll find some useful info here:

1. The tank is probably fine, I used electrolysis+washing soda to derust that fucker over an afternoon. POR15 is great to permanently block water from being a problem again after the initial derust.
2. Carbs are going to need careful cleaning, I never tried berrymans (gallon of noxious chemicals sitting around is not my vibe), but I do recommend ultrasonic cleaning. The rubber is likely degraded (pinholes, dry rot), see if you can find people making aftermarket replacements which use viton, resistant to ethanol in modern gasoline
3. For the future, never spin a motor without putting some oil into the spark plugs holes, the piston rings will gouge the fuck outta the piston walls. Gouges = reduced compression, which = lower engine power, besides burning oil. Clean around the spark plugs to prevent any grit from falling in. Pull out the spark plugs, borrow an endoscope camera from AutoZone or whatever, check inside the cylinders for rust or for circumferential gouges left by the rusting piston rings as well. Nobody ever drops a little oil into the pistons before putting them away, the small amount of humidity that sneaks in causes flash rust. You’ll be honing the cylinder wall, it’s a bit of work but not too bad.
4. Whether you hone or not, best way to check engine condition is using a compression tester, fill the engine with the right kind of oil (should meet at least JASO MA2, no friction modifiers!! They make your clutch permanently slip), plug a charged spare battery in (even a jumper from your car), hook a compression tester to one cylinder while the other cyl has its spark plug thoroughly loosened but not removed (otherwise it may jet oil out into your shop, you can also use some paper towels). Crank, crank, crank, check the tester for the max value. I don’t know this bike, but look for at least 110psi compression, with approx. symmetric values on both cyls.
5. Save money and use cheap oil during restoration, the filter will catch the important debris as you keep reusing the oil, because you’ll find that as you get closer and closer to proper operating status, you’ll be emptying/refilling the oil to get at internals for inspection/adjustment, thus no need to keep using brand new oil. Definitely use the right stuff on the final fill though, and please recycle the old stuff and the filters at the place you bought the oil.

Plenty of other work to do, as your life is in your hands, but you’ll learn a lot, and have fun too. Keep an eye out for corroded electrical connections too, there’s a wiring diagram in the manual that’s pretty easy to follow.

The official service manual is your friend, take the time to read the job first before going for it. Crazy I gotta say that, but I’ve seen other people really fuck some moto jobs up.

Have fun, keep us posted on your progress!

Nah.

Kinda embarrassing to come back this late. Good luck with whatever’s going on I guess 🤷

Nah.

Yes, I’m doing it daily. I explicitly denounce what’s happening in Gaza, am aghast that the very people whose bubby might’ve lived through the Holocaust would perpetrate similar horror on Gazans for the sake of land, and do my best to boycott Israeli products at all times, particularly Teva.

I’ve gone to protests but those seem a little less effective. Writing my senator too, but likely even less effective than that.

It’s a real calamity, but I won’t give up working towards Israel being held accountable. Hamas fucked up, I believe I understand what their motivations were, but Israel is well past sanity at this point.